CLASSIFICATION OF TEAS

Teas are classified according to region of origin, as in China, Ceylon, Japanese, Indonesian and African tea, or by smaller district, such as Darjeeling, Assam and Nilgris from India; Uva and Dimbula from Sri Lanka; Keemun from Chi-men in China's Anhwei Province, and Enshu from Japan.

India
Darjeeling — This is the most expensive, sought-after black tea in the world. Unlike most other teas, many Darjeelings are sold under the name of the plantation where they were grown. Unfortunately, a great deal of tea labeled 'Darjeeling' consists of blends containing only 50% Darjeeling. Worse, most of the Darjeeling contained in these blends is harvested during the rainy season and as a result is less flavorful. If you intend to buy real Darjeeling, make sure you are buying 100% Darjeeling, preferably first or second flush. Fine Darjeelings usually have a lighter liquor than other black teas, from a light reddish color to a bright gold. Astringency is usually quite pronounced, and the aroma and flavor hint of almonds and wildflowers.
Nilgiri — This is an Indian tea which the Indian Tea Board promotes as being in the category of "self-drinkers," which are teas worth drinking unblended. Unfortunately, Nilgiri is not as distinctive or interesting as other teas. It is very much like Ceylon tea. Like Ceylon, much of the Nilgiri harvest ends up in blends.
Sikkim — This variety comes from a tea-growing area near Darjeeling. It combines Darjeeling's delicate flavor and light body with Assam's maltiness. Although it is an excellent tea, it is not very well known yet, and thus not quite as expensive as Darjeeling.

Ceylon
Ceylon (Sri Lanka) — The principal tea-growing districts of Ceylon are in the Central Province and Uva, but there are also extensive districts in the southwest, notably in the Kelani Valley. Known generally as Ceylons, these teas, though all black teas, are classified as high grown (above 4000 feet above sea level), medium grown (above 2000 feet), and low grown (below 2000 feet), as well as by their district names. Colombo is the only local market and the principal shipping point.

China
There are few tea plantations in China proper, but most of the tea is grown by farmers around their homes in the mountainous regions. Authorities believe that China was the world's largest tea producer prior to 1936, but in the mid-1960s it was estimated that China placed third in both world production and export.
Keemun — This is the foundation of many English Breakfast blends. (Some English Breakfasts are all Keemun.) Keemuns come in a remarkably large number of varieties. Most produce a red liquor with a subtle combination of flavors; the aroma is often rich and fruity, sometimes with suggestions of plum and apple. Some Keemuns have a delicate smoky flavor (though not as smoky as Lapsang Souchong).
Lapsang — This tea is fired over smoking pine needles, which produces a striking smoky odor and flavor. The best varieties are not overwhelmed by the smoke, but retain subtlety and a mix of other flavors. Lapsang Souchong is found in many Russian Caravan blends.
Yunnan — Yunnan's brown liquor has a subtle, earthy, peppery flavor. Inexpensive Yunnan is not very exciting, but I am told that the higher quality harvests are wonderful. Some Yunnan is used in Russian Caravan blends.
China Green Tea — (Sir, why is it logical that green tea is made with jasmine flowers?) Logically enough, this tea is scented with jasmine flowers. Some is made from Baozhong tea, but most is based on completely unoxidized green. The highest quality is called Yin Hao. Jasmine tea ranges from abysmal stuff, where the flowers are used to mask the poor quality of the tea, to truly remarkable (and remarkably costly) delicacies.
Ti Kuan Yin — If of good quality, this is a truly magnificent oolong, as good as many Formosa Oolongs. Its color ranges from pinkish to gold, and its peachy flavor is strong and rich. Retail price ranges from $20 per pound to a jaw-dropping $200 per pound.
Pu-erh — unusual large-leafed oolong with a characteristic earthy flavor. The color is very dark, almost red. It is marketed in bulk as Pu-erh or shaped into cakes as Pu'er Cake Tea. Some varieties are cultivated to develop a thin layer of mold on the leaves. The term 'earthy' applies almost literally, as some pu-erh tastes remarkably like dirt. This is not a criticism, but novices should taste the tea before buying it.
Longjing — This tea is named after a famous well which is said to be the home of a dragon. The name (also sometimes spelled 'Lung Ching') means "Dragon Well." Supposedly, one should brew this tea with water from that well. Even with ordinary water, however, it produces a marvelous tea with a complex, subtle and almost sweet flavor.
Baozhong — Also called Bao Jong or Pouchong, it is allowed to wither before firing, hence it is just shy of being oolong. It is sometimes regarded as a fourth basic category of tea, since it is intermediate in oxidation between green tea and oolong. Its flavor also falls between between oolong and green, and its aroma is strongly reminiscent of lilacs. Baozhong is used as the base for some very good Jasmine tea.
White tea — This rare, expensive variety is made up entirely of buds. Its flavor is delicate and subtle.

Japan
Green tea accounts for more than 80% of Japan's tea exports, The chief producing district is in the environs of Shizuoka, the center of Japan's export tea trade. Almost the entire export is shipped through the port of Shimizu, eight miles away.
Gyokuro — Gyokuro is the most highly valued Japanese tea. Also known as "Pearl Dew," it is a surprisingly rich, herbaceous tea.
Spider Leg — This is a "basket-fired" variety of Gyokuro, meaning that it is fired in bamboo baskets. The leaves turn out long and thin, hence the name "Spider Leg."
Mattcha — Mattcha is the powdered tea used in the famed Tea Ceremony. It is also called Tencha (before it is powdered).
Sencha — Sencha is a generic name for Japanese green tea, applying to most high quality tea other than Gyokuro. Bancha refers to late-harvested teas. Roasted tea is called Hojicha.
Genmaicha — is sometimes called "popcorn tea" because of its unusual taste. It is green tea blended with toasted rice.

Indonesia
About 75 to 80% of the tea in Indonesia is grown in Java and the remainder in Sumatra. The principal tea-growing districts in Java are in the Bogor and Preanger areas in the western part of the island, but tea is grown almost throughout the island. In Sumatra, the chief tea-growing district is in the highlands south of Medan. Mainly black teas are exported.
Jakarta, on the northwest coast of Java, is the center of the tea trade in Indonesia, its port being Tandjungpriok. Sumatra's tea export trade is centered in Medan and shipped from Belawan, 16 miles away.

Pakistan
Pakistan has made substantial gains as a tea producer since its establishment as an independent country in 1947. Pakistani teas are generally black and are known as Sylhets and Chittagongs. Chittagong is the center of the country's tea trade, and all teas are shipped through its port.

Taiwan (formerly Formosa)
The tea districts are generally confined to the northern part of the island around T'ai-pei and Hsin-chu. T'ai-pei is the center of Formosa's tea trade, and all teas are shipped from the port of Chi-lung, about 18 miles away. About half of Formosa's teas are black; the remainder are either green or semifermented.
Formosa oolongs — These teas are grown in Taiwan, have a long-standing reputation as the finest oolongs available. They are called the "Champagne of Teas," and rightly so in most cases. There are many varieties. Most that are commercially available in the West are not labeled with varietal or place names; the label usually just informs you that it is Formosa oolong and gives its grade.

Other countries
Tea is grown in Georgia (the country) and to some extent in the Azerbaijan located on the southern slopes of the Adjar hills near the eastern short of the Black Sea. This is the farthest north that tea is cultivated anywhere. Several African countries have become important as growers and exporters of tea. Outstanding among these are Kenya, Malawi, Uganda, and Tanzania and a small quantity of tea is also produced commercially in Argentina and Brazil.